Testing each Module one at a time until you can see how the vehicle reacts with Ignition Key "ON".įor now. try following the Splice Pack Wire Jumping Technique. You also do NOT necessarily NEED a Tech 2 Scanner, Laptop or Tablet and a PICO (The $80.00 Hantek version is much more affordable) Oscilloscope. since the Blue Tooth version may not work at all on a 'scrabnoid' Class 2 Network. The USB hard line to DLC Connector version of that same Scanner might be a better choice in this instance. and possibly harms you, too.Īdding to suggestion. I would NOT recommend connecting the Positive and Negative Battery Leads together while as much as 600-700 Cold Cranking Amps surges in between and possibly destroys the Battery. The VOP (Video Original Poster) here is THE Guy who taught Will Robinson how to do this very same type of Class 2 Network Failure Diagnosis: just laying up on the Dashboard,waiting to be Loaded into the "Parts Cannon" and Fired at this Vehicle! But Thankfully.the Hero of his Own Story finally saves the day (and the Truck Owner's Wallet) from all that unnecessary expense. Take Note of all the New Parts yet to be Un-Boxed. After he unplugged it, he was able to turn the ignition key and instantly get the truck to start up and run normally again. he too relies upon a Tried and True "Trial and Error" Method to delve into each Module on the Class 2 Network, then Identify and Disable a completely FUBAR ABS Module that was making this Late Model Truck Dead as a Door Nail. even though it happens on a different GM Truck Platform while the VOP uses the very same Procedures and Tests followed by Will Robinson. watch this 30 Minute Video on how this problem can be remedied. so you'll know which Module you are checking in each position. you'll have the chance to Freeze Frame & Screen Print the Splice Pack Wire connection Position, Color and Alpha-Numeric Identifiers. If you watch the Video at the key places where he shows his Snap-On Verus Screen. Will's Technique of using a few Safety Pins looks promising. Using Back-Probe Pins will prevent damaging the Splice Pack Internal connections from the front of them. one at a time and see which Module either brings the entire Network down or allows it to become active. Turn the Ignition Key ON.Turn the Radio ON and after pulling loose the Plastic-Metal Comb, use the Grounding Colored Network Wire in each of them to methodically connect each Splice Pack Pin. You can simply locate those Two Class 2 Network Splice Packs both under the Dash-Driver's Side and under the Right Rear Passenger Seat and by a Process of Elimination. It really is not necessary to have any of them. THIS disease makes COVID look like a Hang Nail by comparison with their ultimate Kill Rates):Įven though Will from Will Robinson's Auto was uses the Highest End Scanning Tools and Oscilloscope possible to perform the Tests and Diagnostics mentioned in Post #2. Please use a Face Mask and Gloves to avoid inhaling or handling desiccated Rat-Mouse Urine and Feces that the Common Deer Mouse transmits the Hanta Virus (.think 'Cousin to Ebola' here). These are Real World GMT Member Images showing what to look for on the GMT-360s: Use a Bright Flashlight while examining the wiring bundles and connectors for damage, If you can see signs of nest building with Grass-Twigs and Headliner e some CAUTION here. The pin on the crank relay that is supposed to ground is not grounding in the crank position but the PCM is getting a crank signal, so that makes me think it's the 's idea about searching for THESE artifacts of "Rodent Gnoshing" is a good one. Any idea where to check? The shop manual is not showing where the grounds are. Strange that the door locks, windows, and radio will not work. Am I missing anything? Where can I get a PCM? I believe it has to be programmed if that is the problem. I got to the point in the service manual diagnostics where it said to check for power in the crank position at pin 31, purple wire, at the PCM blue connector. The door locks and power windows and radio will not work either. With the key on all lights work and go off except the check engine light. No codes present, but I do get a U1000 with my cheap scan tool, which I believe means no communication with the PCM. The ignition switch has power to the red wire, pink wire, and yellow wire in crank position. The battery tests good and if I jump the start relay it will crank but not stay running. I went to drive my 2002 Trailblazer today and the remote would not unlock the doors.
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